Mar 7, 2014

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric


Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

It's time to cut a fabric for the Zlata skirt. Depending on the variation you're sewing, follow a corresponding cutting layout from the instructions document, which will save your fabric and use in in an optimal way.

If you're sewing the View B, cut the skirt panels A and D along the border line.
If you're sewing the View C, fold (there's no need to cut) the belt loops along the marked lines.

The following panels need to be cut:

View A
  • A - front skirt panel: 1x on fold
  • B - pocket: 2x 
  • C - front waist yoke: 2x on fold
  • D - back skirt panel: 1x on fold
  • E - back waist yoke: 2x on fold


View A
Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

View B

fabric A
  • A1 - front skirt panel: 1x on fold
  • C - front waist yoke: 2x on fold
  • D1 - back skirt panel: 1x on fold
fabric B
  • A2 - front skirt border panel: 1x on fold
  • C - front waist yoke: 2x on fold
  • D2 - back skirt border panel: 1x on fold
  • E - back waist yoke: 2x on fold

view B
 Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

View C
  • A - front skirt panel: 1x on fold
  • B - pocket: 2x 
  • C - front waist yoke: 2x on fold
  • D - back skirt panel: 1x on fold
  • E - back waist yoke: 2x on fold

view C
Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric
Lining, all views
  • F - pocket lining: 2x
  • G - front lining panel: 1x on fold
  • H - back lining panel: 1x on fold

lining, all views
Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

You need to transfer the contours of the pattern pieces to the fabric, as well as the full lines that represent the pleat folds. Also, transfer the pleat stitch notches (rounded in red line). Optionally, transfer the dashed pleats' fold lines.
If you're making views A or B, make a precise marks on the fabric that represent the angles that belt loops form with the top of the skirt panels.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric


Don't forget Stepalica Patterns don't have seam allowances, so you need to add them before cutting the fabric. I suggest adding 1 - 1.5 cm wide SAs along the side seams and 2 - 2.5 cm wide hem allowances.

I'll also show you the technique I used for marking the pleat fold lines, using the loose basting, which transfers the marks symmetrically to both layers of fabric (that is, if the fabric is cut on fold). Note that this is not the fastest method to use.

So, I folded the fabric width wise and cut the front and back skirt panels on fold. I added the required SAs.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

Along top and bottom edges of the fabric I made small cuts on the spots where the pleat folds starts and ends were.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

Then I removed the paper pattern from the fabric and marked with chalk the pleat fold lines, by connecting the corresponding cuts on top and bottom of the panels.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

Using the loose basting stitch and thread in a contrasting color, I basted through both layers of fabric, following the previously marked lines.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

Once all the pleat fold lines were basted I slowly and gently opened the fabric and cut the basting thread that peaked between the two layers.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric

As a result I got symmetrically marked plead fold lines; the marks can be easily removed by pulling the thread from the fabric.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #5 Cut the fabric


Zlata Sewalong - the posts

We'll start sewing on Monday - I'll show you how to make the belt loops for the views A and B.

Stay tuned!

How to buy the pattern


Stepalica: Zlata skirt pattern
Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop
I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods:

* PayPal via 2checkout (www.2co.com)
* Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover

PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.







When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.

For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com


Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala


Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Vreme je da iskrojimo materijal za Zlata suknju. Zavisno od varijacije koju šijete, pratite odgovarajući krojni plan koji stoji u instrukcijama kroja, kako biste uštedeli materijal i iskoristili ga na optimalan način.

Ukoliko šijete varijaciju B, presecite krojne delove A i D duž naznačene linije bordure.
Ukoliko šijete varijaciju C, savijte (nema potrebe da sečete) gajke za kaiš duž naznačenih linija.

Potrebno je iskrojiti sledeće krojne delove:

Varijacija A
  • A - prednji panel suknje: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
  • B - džep: 2x 
  • C - prednji pojas: 2x sa pregibom tkanine
  • D - zadnji panel suknje: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
  • E - zadnji pojas: 2x sa pregibom tkanine


varijacija A
Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Varijacija B

materijal A
  • A1 - prednji panel suknje: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
  • B - džep: 2x
  • D1 - zadnji panel suknje: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
materijal B
  • A2 - prednjia bordura suknje: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
  • C - prednji pojas: 2x sa pregibom tkanine
  • D2 - zadnja bordura suknje: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
  • E - zadnji pojas: 2x sa pregibom tkanine


varijacija B
 Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Varijacija C
  • A - prednji panel suknje: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
  • B - džep: 2x
  • C - prednji pojas: 2x sa pregibom tkanine
  • D - zadnji panel suknje: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
  • E - zadnji pojas: 2x sa pregibom tkanine

varijacija C
Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala
Postava, za sve varijacije
  • F - postava džepa: 2x
  • G - prednji panel postave: 1x sa pregibom tkanine
  • H - zadnji panel postave: 1x sa pregibom tkanine

postava, za sve varijacije
Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Potrebno je preneti na materijal samu konturu kroja, kao i pune linije koje predstavljaju pregibe falti. Takođe, prenesite na kroj i markere za šivenje falti (zaokruženi crvenom bojom). Opciono, možete preneti na materijal i isprekidane linije pregiba gajki.
Za varijacije A i B potrebno je precizno naglasiti uglove koje prave gornja ivica panela suknje i gajke za kaiš.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala


Ne zaboravite da Štepalica krojevi nemaju uključene i dodatke za šavove, pa je potrebno dodati ih pre iskrajanja materijala. Preporučujem da dodate 1 - 1,5 cm široke dodatke za šavove duž svih ivica kroja, sem na porubu, za koji je potrebno ostaviti 2 - 2.5 cm dodatne dužine.

Pokazaću vam i tehniku koju sam ja koristila za obeležavanje pregiba gajki, tzv. labavi firc, koji veoma precizno i simetrično obeležava liniju šava na oba sloja tkanine, u slučaju da je materijal krojen dvoslojno ili sa pregibom tkanine. Napominjem da ovaj metod nije najbrži način rada.

Dakle, tkaninu sam presavila na pola po širini i iskrojila panele suknje sa pregibom tkanine. Ostavila sam potrebne dodatke za šavove.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Duž gornje i donje ivice kroja sam pravila male zaseke u materijalu, na mestima gde su počeci i krajevi oznaka pregiba falti.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Potom sam uklonila papirni kroj sa tkanine, i kredom obeležila linije pregiba falti, spajajući prethodno obeležene tačke duž gornje i donje ivice materijala.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Koristeći labavi firc, prošila sam koncem u kontrastnoj boji oba sloja tkanine, prateći prethodno iscrtane duži.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Kada su sve linije profircane, laganim potezima sam širila slojeve tkanine, dok se firc nije zategao jednako na oba sloja. Potom sam prosekla  niti konca između dva sloja materijala.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Rezultat su simetrično obeležene linije pregiba, koje se lako mogu ukloniti izvlačenjem konca iz materijala.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #5 krojenje materijala

Šivenje Zlata suknje - članci

U ponedeljak počinjemo da šijemo suknju. Krenućemo sa šivenjem gajki na varijacijama A i B.

Pratite dalje postove!


Kupovina kroja


Zlata kroj za suknju košta $11.98, ali kupci iz Srbije ovaj šnit mogu kupiti za upola manje novca, tj. za 500 RSD.

Kroj se može kupiti u dolarskoj valuti preko moje onlajn prodavnice na Etsy sajtu, ili uplatom novca u dinarskoj valuti na moj žiro račun.

Napominjem da dinarske cene ne važe ukoliko kupujete preko Etsy prodavnice.

Za sve dodatne informacije o kupovini, molim vas šaljite mi email na adresu: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.


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