Aug 27, 2013

Nougat dress #1301 sewalong - Sastavite suknju / Assemble the skirt

U prethodnim postovima smo pravili prednje i zadnje gornje delove Nugat haljine. Danas ćemo se pozabaviti suknjom i sastaviti gornje i donje delove, tako da ćete konačno imati priliku da osetite kako će gotova haljina izgledati. Ako ste preživeli šivenje romba sa naborima, sav dalji posao će biti prilično jednostavan.

We made the front and back bodice blocks of the Nougat dress in the previous posts and today we're going to play with the waist yokes and skirt. Also, we will assemble the front and back dress panels, so you'll have a chance to see how the dress will look when finished. If you have survived making the gathered diamond, you'll find the further work quite simple and straight forward.


Sastavite pojas suknje / Assemble the waist yokes


Ukoliko do sada niste iskrojili prednje i zadnje delove pojasa (D1 - D4 i E1 - E4), učinite to sada, koristeći metod opisan u prethodnim postovima. Budite izuzetno pažljivi sa špicastim delovima kroja, trudite se da ne deformišete originalan oblik kroja. Dakle, iskrojte delove u dva sloja, profircajte slojeve zajedno i izendlajte ivice. 
Na krojnom delu D4 napravite na dnu mali zasek kod centralne linije kroja, kao što ste to uradili i na krojnom delu za suknju, Isto važi i za krojni deo E4. 
Poređajte delove pojasa na radnu površinu, tako da formiraju oblik gotovog pojasa.

If you haven't cut the front and back waist yoke panels (D1 - D4 and E1 - E4), do it now, using the method described in the previous posts. Be extra careful with the pointy panels, try not to deform the original panels' shapes. So, cut the panels, hand-baste them and serge the edges.
Make a short cut on the D4 panel, under the center front line, just like you did on the skirt panel. Do the same on the pattern block E4.
Arrange the yoke panels on a surface, so that they form the shape of the final yoke.



Sastavljajte delove postavljajući ih licem ka licu. Pošto su krjoni delovi veoma krivih ivica, vodite računa da ih glatko uklopite, tako da nigde nema pregiba tkanine, faltica i nabora. Kako koji šav sastavite, raspeglajte ga. Otsecite ćoškove dodataka za šavove na mestima gde se susreće više šavova u istoj tački.

Assemble the pieces, facing them with right sides together. Since all the pieces have rather curved shape, make sure the seams are smooth, with no puckers. Press the seams open. Clip off the SAs on those points where multiple seams end.




Sastavite suknju / Assemble the skirt


Uzmite panele za suknju, i postavite kraći panel preko dužeg, tako da NALIČJE kraćeg panela leži preko LICA dužeg. Poravnajte panele duž gornje ivice i profircajte slojeve zajedno. Izendlajte ivice kao jedan sloj.

Take the skirt panels and lay the shorter panel over the longer one, so that the WRONG SIDE of the short panels i laid over the RIGHT SIDE of the longer. Align the top edges of the panels and baste the layer together. Serge the top edges as a single layer.


Sastavite panele suknje i pojasa. Poravnajte zaseke koje ste napravili na suknji i pojasu, a zatim uklopite ostatak šava, postavljajući delove licem ka licu materijala.

Sew the waist yoke to the skirt. Align the short cuts on the skirt and yoke first, then pin the rest of the seam line, placing the panels with right sides together.


Prošijte šavove i raspeglajte ih i dobili ste suknju! Isti postupak se koristi i za prednji i za zadnji deo suknje.

Sew the seams, press the SAs and you get the skirt! Repeat the process for both front and back skirt panels.


Kada ste sklopili suknju, prišijte je za gornji deo haljine, vodeći računa da su spiralni šavovi na oba dela savršeno poravnati. Raspeglajte šavove. 
Sada već možete da naslutite kako će izgledati gotova haljina. 

Once the skirt is assembled, sew it to the bodice, making sure the spiral seams on both parts are perfectly aligned. Press the seams open.
Now you can see how the dress will look when finished.


Ne znam kako vi, ali ja u ovom trenutku upadam u neku euforiju i dobijam dodatni elan koji me gura da što pre završim haljinu. No, nećemo brzati, jer ima još dosta posla da se uradi, 
U sledećem članku ćemo sastaviti prednji i zadnji deo haljine i prišiti rajsferšlus. Nakon toga ćemo sastaviti postavu.

I don't know about you, but at this point I become euphoric and get some extra motivation which pushes me to finish the dress. However, we're not going to rush things up, there's a lot of work to be dine.
We'll assemble the dress and insert a zipper in the next post. After that we'll construct the lining.