Oct 12, 2011

Pravljenje kroja za pantalone / Drafting pants pattern

Jedna čitateljka mi je poslala email sa molbom da joj pomognem da sama izmodeluje kroj za pantalone. Za početak, moram malo da se ogradim: ja nikada nisam sama napravila kroj za pantalone, uvek sam koristila gotove komercijalne krojeve. Vremenom sam naučila da prepoznam kroj koji mi dobro stoji, ili da ga prepravim kako bi mi lepo pristajao. Takođe, znajte da nisam nikad išla na časove modelovanja krojeva, niti imam ikakvo formalno obrazovanje iz ove oblasti, već sam potpuno samouka. 

Ipak, svojevremeno sam istraživala sav materijal koji sam mogla da nađem na netu, a koji pokriva ovu temu. Evo par referenci koje možete pogledati ako želite da naučie kako se pravi kroj za pantalone, i kako se isti prekraja da bi vam bolje stajao:
  • Gedwoods, član Burda Style sajta je napisao odličan tutorijal, koji daje detaljna uputstva kako se pravi kroj za pantalone.
  • Don, autor fenomenalnog bloga Weekend Designer je napisao post o tome kako se pravi kroj za klasične farmerke.
  • Evo još jednog članka, koji daje instrukcije za pravljenje kroja za muške pantalone.
  • New Mexico State University ima odličan članak koji daje savete o tome kako odabrati kroj za pantalone, i kako ga prepraviti u slučaju da su potrebne korekcije.
  • Sarai, koja pravi krojeve Colette Patterns trenutno ima na svom blogu niz postova o pantalonama, koji detaljno obrađuju sve probleme koji se mogu javiti na pantalonama.
  • Sunni, autor bloga A Fashionable Stitch takođe ima serijal postova o pantalonama.
  • Claire Kennedy takođe ima veoma zanimljiv članak na svom blogu o pantalonama.
  • The Sewing Divas blog ima zanimljiv članak o tome kako se proširuju nogavice na pantalonama u predelu bedara.
  • Threads časopis ima članak koji takođe opisuje kako se menja kroj za pantalone.
Imate li vi još neki savet ili referencu koja bi mogla da bude korisna?



A reader sent me an email asking me to help her draft a pants pattern. I have to say: I've never dratfted a pants pattern, I've always used commercial patterns. In time I learned which models suite me and how to redraft and alter patterns to make them fit me. Also, I've never taken any drafting classes, and I don't have any formal education on the subject, since I'm completely self taught.

However, I've been browsing for any sort of literature I could find on the internet, that covers the subject. Here are a few references you might want to look if you want to learn how to draft the pants pattern, or how to  fit the pattern to your specific measurements:
  • Gedwoods, a member of the Burda website wrote an excellent tutorijal, which gives detailed instruction on how to draft a pants pattern.
  • Don, an autor of the fabulous blog Weekend Designer  wrote a post about drafting a pattern for classic jeans.
  • Here's another article, that gives instructions for drafting a man's pants pattern.
  • New Mexico State University has an excellent article that gives an advice about choosing the right pants model and how to redraft it to make it fit your body.
  • Sarai, who's a designer and owner of the Colette Patterns has a series of posts about pants on her blog, that treat all sorts of pants fitting issues in detail.
  • Sunni, author of the blog A Fashionable Stitch also has a serial of  postovs about pants.
  • Claire Kennedy also has a very interesting article on her blog about pants.
  • The Sewing Divas blog has an interesting article on how to widen pants legs in the tights area.
  • Threads magazine has an article that also describes alterations on pants patterns.
Do you have any additional advice or reference that might be helpful?

1 comment:

  1. More links:

    http://www.independentliving.org/fashionfreaks/wpants.html

    http://www.leenas.com/English/draw_women_pants.html

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwfw94PytRk


    http://blog.myrnagiesbrecht.com/2010/03/high-front-low-back-oddity.html

    ReplyDelete